Since we are right in the middle of the Olympics in South Korea, I thought that it would be a good time for me to list my Top 3 favorite watches. I have been a watchmaker since 1977 and have done 1000’s of repairs. I have worked on just about every good mechanical watch that I can think of, everything from a Bulova to a Rolex. Like any technician, I have my own personal favorites to repair. A number of factors go into the reasons that I like a particular movement. Everything from the ease of taking it apart, how many hidden problems that can come up during the repair, how well does it run etc. Some watch movements are just a “pain in the neck” to work on. They are just not engineered very well, they are way too complicated, have loose springs in the date, just about impossible to get the train back in place, date is a nightmare to assemble, quick-sets that don’t work properly etc…
Here is my top 3:
Bronze Medal – Eta 2824
The 2824 is the workhorse of the ETA family of movements.. It is a very solid movement, no surprises in the auto, train or date. When properly regulated, it is quite accurate. The auto is simple, basically 2 screws to remove when servicing. the train is easy to assemble, the balance and jewels are a breeze to repair. The date is simple, no loose springs to deal with. It has an easy quick-set, really a piece of cake to work on. The movement is used in quite a few different brands, everything from a Breitling, Tag or a Hamilton. The auto and mainspring give a solid power reserve, so overall for not a fortune, this watch does exactly with it is supposed to do, tell time and keep on running.
Silver Medal – Hamilton 992B
Out of all of the pocket watches that I have ever worked on, by far my favorite is the Hamilton 992b. This is just a solid beautiful movement. Nothing fancy, but it just runs like a top. Heavy plates, overall quality is outstanding, train, mainspring and balance are top of the line. One of the toughest jobs in watchmaking is replacing a balance staff. On the 992b it is a breeze. It is a friction fit staff, so taking out the old one and installing the replacement is a slick job. This is just about the only staff job that I enjoy. This one will run well and can be adjusted down to the split second on most models.
Gold Medal – Rolex 3135
When you are talking about ease of repair, how well it runs, beautiful trouble free movement, well engineered, you can’t beat the Rolex 3135. Everything about this movement says quality. This is a beautiful well designed movement, the train is easy to install, train wheels are sturdy, mainspring has a great power reserve. The auto is a breeze to clean and oil and is just about trouble free. The oscillating weight axle is a part that needs replacing on some repairs and that is an easy fix. The date is a breeze, no hidden springs, the cannon pinion stays tight, quick -set is simple and always works as it should.
17 Comments
Mike Graves
Wow. Cool data, Mark. Very interesting to get a professional’s viewpoint on the quality of the workings. I’ve been crazy busy lately so haven’t been responding to your postings. I’ve been reading them, though. Thanks for all of the continued-interesting information!
Curt Hopkins
Mark, Is the 3136 exact to the 3135 but just bigger? And if identical is it easier to work on since the parts are bigger! Also, is the 3155 similar except for a day wheel? BTW, my wife just saw my note regarding purchasing more watches which utilize the 3135 and thinks it is time, (pun intended). for you to post about your favorite very expensive women watches!
Bob Phillips
Awesome stuff as always Mark! Love the Rolex got the Gold! LOL…love mine and you are my go to man when I need a service or repair. I tell everyone about you and your website. Best there is!
Ken Booty
Nice article Mark.
Shame you don’t do chronographs, but the thrust of your article was elegant simplicity.
My Valjoux 772 and 7750 are sweet movements, but admittedly complicated and pricey to overhaul.
Doug Hartsock
I didn’t know until recently that ETA was a Swiss concern that produced movements for several watch companies. My father left me several watches when he passed 20 years ago. One was a Benrus mechanical military watch that didn’t run well, so I left it in its case. I finally got around to looking at it more closely and doing some research. It turns out it is the Benrus model 3061 with an ETA 2372 movement. But the coolest thing about it: it is the same watch worn by Steve McQueen in the movie Bullitt. In fact, the watch is known as the Benrus Bullitt. Needless to say I will be having it serviced soon.
Mark Morgan
As always very interesting information. Thank you. Mark
Joseph H Clarke
Good morning Mark. I have been reading with interest your web site and quite frankly I’m impressed. I have been pondering sending my Rolex for repair but not sure of the impact customs would have on our transaction. I am also concerned about security of shipping my watch uninsured to you. I know there is a difference in the exchange rate between our two countries which will impact my final cost of repair. Is there anything you can comment on that would alleviate my concerns? I look forward to your reply.
Bert Perdue
I love my 992Bs , have over 50 of them.
Dayton Cannan
You really love your work and I enjoy all the info you share.. Great job!!
Mike Pennington
Great information, really enjoyed reading your picks. I’ve often wondered what your favorites were.
Jerome Schley Sr.
Hi Mark, as far as Reliability and ease of working on. What do you think of the good old Unitas 6498 and 6497. Movements ? I have some that are really good for the price I paid. As you already know, My Amish Friends and Neighbors need Mechanical watches. I gave a 6497 Unitas Movement in an Arnex case that you cleaned for me 10 years ago to my Amish friend and Neighbor 9 years ago and he has been using it constantly since. I have offered to have it cleaned and oiled but he thinks its better to wait until its broken before servicing it. What do you think is best for thw watch movement? I am sure you know the Amish Watchmaker in Conewango Valley where I offered to get it cleaned at for him. We both or all 3 of us know Eli would do a good job so thats not a concern. It is just a question of. Preventive Maintainence vs. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Or let a sleeping dog lie and you won’t get bit. It is a 17 jewel Unitas 6497 so parts a still available. Anyway. What do you think of Unitas 6497 -6498 vs ETA Copies of same.
Paul Baluch
Love my 992B’s. Thanks for your work on them!
Tom Gonzales
Thanks Mark, Way cool information that I did not know. I am a technician myself and you are absolutely correct about technician having their favorites for various reasons. My favorite timekeeping machines have always been mechanical watches. This may be of interest to you, as an electrical guy I can not always wear a wrist worn timekeeping device so my go to time keeping machine has always been my Hamilton 992b. It has been in service for more than 30 years and am quite confident that it will still be going long after my death. So much for the “fit bit” whatever that is anyway!
Gary Harvey
Greetings Mark, I’m the happy owner of your Bronze preference. You are dead-on when you mentioned how well that model ETA movement maintains keeping time.
Every other month, I adjust forward one minute. Not bad for an
automatic.
Thank You for your help and the Excellence of your repair service.
Gary Gordon
My favorite watch is one I have worn daily for 50 years, a Glycine Airman. I bought it in 1968 at the BX in Naha, Okinawa. I was young and poor Air Force pilot flying C130’s in Vietnam. The Glycine was a very popular watch among Pilots, Navigators, Flight Engineers and other air crew members. It is was true 24 hour watch which has a positive locking ring for setting a second time zone. Unlike the Rolex GMT, the outer bezel could be locked and not subject accidental moving. We flew our sorties on Zulu time which was set on the face of the watch and coordinated with the calendar, local time was set on the outer bezel. A very simple watch to use and ideal for air crew members. The watch had an interesting hack feature that I have never seen on another watch. When you pulled out the crown to set the watch, a small pin popped up on the dial stopping the second hand at exactly the 12 o’clock position allowing for precise hacking. The watch was offered in two models, the Glycine Airman which had an AShild 1700/1701 movement with 25 jewels adjusted for position and the Glycine Airman Special which had the same movement but in a 17 jewel configuration and unadjusted. Both movements were self winding. The watch was housed in a stainless steel waterproof case. Military issue watches of that era were very basic and depending who got the contract could be junk. They ranged from Bulova, to Benrus and sometimes Hamilton (which were the best). The cases ranged from cheap plastic to plain base metal. I am surprised to see what they sell for on Ebay. The first thing we did, when funds allowed was to sling them and buy a Glycine. Proper servicing (every 4 years) has paid off as the watch still keeps great time.
Johnny
After listening to you I purchased a 992 and a 992B (both from you). Fantastic pocket watches, thanks Mark.
Huang
Hi Mark, Some say that Rolex 1570 is a robust legend movement. Is it comparable to Rolex 3135?